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Food and travel writer Tilly Culme-Seymour recounts the summers spent on a Norwegian island bought by her grandmother, Mor-Mor, in 1947. Family legend says that Mor-Mor bought Småhølmene in exchange for a mink coat. Every summer, she would take her young family away from their home in the English countryside to roam the island. She would scandalise locals by wandering naked, while the children spent days stealing gull eggs, rowing on the lagoon and foraging for wild raspberries. Thirty-five years later, Culme-Seymour experienced the same childhood rituals on the island with her own mother.